First Time in Kenya

Yellow Acacia trees outside Nairobi

Safari beckoned and I heeded the call. It was my first visit to Kenya and to the African continent and I intended to make it as memorable as possible. I knew there would be great discoveries along the way but what I was not prepared for were the little amazing moments.

After a 20-hour travel from Manila, I arrived at the Jomo Kenyatta International Airport at about 3 in the afternoon. Immediately, I felt the biting cold which was completely opposite of what I was expecting. I thought East Africa would be humid.

During the twenty-minute drive from the airport to the Savora Panfric Hotel, the driver explained that the unpredictable weather is due to 'globalization'. Driving through Mombasa Highway which connects the airport to Nairobi town center, I had the feeling that I was in Northern Philippines circa 1980. Instead of vehicles, I saw herds of cows along the road. The driver further explained that traffic is light because the country is celebrating Jomo Kenyatta Day.

Colorful bougainvilleas welcome visitors

at the Jomo Kenyatta International Airport

My room at the second floor of the hotel faces the street where a prominent billboard of the Fairview Hotel stands. Talk about strategic advertising.

I was about to let go of the kind bellboy who helped me with my luggage when I noticed that there was no hair dryer. He said the front desk will 'loan' me one for 500 Kenyan Schillings. I must have looked doubtful because he hurriedly said that my money will be returned after I return the hair dryer. I gave him the required deposit and he took off running after he showed me his name tag and said, "Remember my name Kizito, a Christian name."

While he was gone, I checked the room and made a list of things I needed: iron and ironing board, adapter for my laptop (they have British-style outlets), toothpaste and a pair of slippers. I was about to hit the shower when the power went off. I opened the curtains to let in some light. It was getting dark and there were heavy clouds over the horizon. I hated the idea of sleeping in the dark. To my relief, power resumed after 10 minutes. Throughout the night, and the days that followed, there were more power outages lasting between 5 to 10 minutes. It was pretty normal--in fact, expected. At least, there's hot water and a few cable channels. No BBC or CNN, but there's Entertainment Channel and MTV.

Works of art for sale

In a foreign country, one can only TRUST the people, PRAY that one will not be duped and HOPE that one will get a fair bargain.

The hotel was slow to respond to our request for a safari package so I called the Fairview Hotel. The tour lady came and introduced herself as Esther Kiriuki. I agreed on a one-day safari at Lake Nakuru National Park located 2 hours from Nairobi. For US$190, the package includes transportation to and from Nakuru and entrance fee and lunch at the game lodge inside the park. I paid the day before the trip as required. She said the driver will be at the hotel at 6:30 AM. She gave me her business card with all her phone numbers and the name and phone number of the driver. But after a few minutes of talking on the phone, she changed the name and contact details of the driver saying that she wanted the BEST driver/tour guide and the man she had earlier isn't reliable. Oh dear. I did not get a receipt which made the butterflies in my stomach unhappy. But what can one do? I just had to TRUST her word that the driver will show up the following day.

Not your typical hotel: An inn outside Nairobi

Well, the driver showed up the following day in his khakis and off we went to Nakuru. It was raining in Nairobi but he gave assurance that it will be dry in Nakuru. He kept saying, "It's a beautiful day, my friend. Hakuna Matata!"

The two-and-a-half hour drive was scenic. It was like being in a pre-historic movie with dinosaurs about to walk in the frame anytime. Outside the city, a green carpet unfolded with mountains of gentle slopes. I was reminded of the drive outside Florence. Only this time, instead of sunflowers, there were occasional Euphorbia, yellow acacia and purple jaracanda trees. Instead of lavander fields, there was a huge camp of about 30 tents for displaced people. Surprisingly, the asphalt road was smooth. No bumpy rides except when passing through towns.

By the Great Rift Valley:
A woman sweeps the floor, her colorful kangas waiting for buyers

Two hours away from Lake Nakura, we stopped at a viewing deck. In the dewy morning, the Great Rift Valley lay thousands of feet below.

The Great Rift Valley, one of the world's wonders, was formed 2 to 7 million years ago. The Rift Valley extends all the way from Jordan and runs through Ethiopia, Kenya, Tanzania, Congo, Malawi and Mozambique. The Great Rift is approximately 4,000 miles long and 35 miles wide. It was formed due to geological tensions in the earth's crust that caused a deep depression. The Rift gave rise to many lakes such as Lake Nakuru. The Rift Valley has been a rich source of fossils for the study of human evolution. Bones of several hominid ancestors of modern humans have been unearthed in the Rift Valley including those of "Lucy", a nearly complete autralophitecine skeleton.

Where it all began: The Great Valley Rift as seen from outside Nairobi

Lake Nakuru National Park offered an amazing wildlife experience. "Nakuru" means "dusty or dirty place" in Maasai language. The lake is world famous as the location of the greatest bird spectacle on earth--milions of fuschia pink flamingos. They feed on the abundant algae which thrives in the warm, shallow water. For three to four months, Lake Nakuru is their home then they fly back to Tanzania to breed. Aside from flamingos, there are about 400 resident bird species around the lake and surrounding areas.

All around the lake, as far as the eye can see, there was a pinkish lace of flamingos.

The park also boasts of a large collection of animals. It has more than 24 rhinos, one of the largest concentrations in the country. There is also a number of Rothschild's giraffe which were translocated for safety from western Kenya in 1977. There are herds of zebras, water buffalos, wild hogs, and gazelles--both Thomson's and Grant's, packs of hyenas, baboons and predators such as lions and tigers.

A white rhino rests under a yellow acacia tree

Vinaigrette for my greens : A giraffe stopped nibbling and looked at us.

The Alpha Male: An herd of female gazelles lorded over by one male gazelle.

A safari van similar to what I had. I also saw a number of big buses inside the park.

It was dark when I returned to the hotel. Traffic inside Nairobi was heavy as Kenyans were rushing for home.

Looking back, the trip provided me with a memorable and unique opportunity to commune with nature and with history. It also brought me closer to home and to myself.

Hatuna Matata! Assante sana Kenya!